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Learning to change
Posted on 29/04/2010 21:10:09
If a diet plan was that easy everybody would be lean. The thing is that people come in different shapes and forms and what works for one won't necessarily work for another. Over and above this fact is that what largely dictates the outcome of what we do is our intention and the thought process behind it rather than the action itself. Therefore ensuring change is not just about instigating practical change but also in addressing the underlying patterns and beliefs. 
This is what coaching is all about...embarking on a process of change. Human beings are dynamic creatures as are the lives we lead. 
Happy changing! 

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Home sweet home
Posted on 04/02/2010 20:29:20

4 planes, 1 train, 2 looong bus journey’s and countless little ones, 2 motorbike trips and 1200km’s on the bike and I’m home!

I have come under heavy fire for not letting everyone know I am home. The lack of updates were, in fact, a secret ploy on my behalf to check who was reading my blog. Busted! I shall not mention names for fear of backlash.  

I was originally scheduled to return to Jhb on the 7th but lack of cash flow, a working bicycle and patience for the repeated attempts on trying to rip me off saw me change my flight and land yesterday morning.

The journey back was not uneventful, of course; prior to departure I was once again whisked behind closed doors and interrogated over my ‘bomb’s. They are really called bombs and are used to pump tyres. Well after a lecture that ended with “you no take on plane” I was escorted back to my seat. We had a bit of turbulence and as you can see Frankie is starting to look a little green – yet perhaps that is normal for a frog?

So now I am safely home and so happy to be surrounded by friends and family. I am also hugely excited at the prospect of real food. I am dreaming of riding my dear mt bike except a mere R2000’s worth of damage is currently standing in my way. Did I mention I spent R5000 on it and spares before I left? This adventure streak within my personality could become somewhat problematic due to its expense. Of course it’s not just the cost of the travel but added expenses and the cost of not working that is most considerable but that said had I to consider it again I’d go in a flash.

And this brings us to the question of work no doubt. I shall let you all know once I have finalised things. In the meantime I am pitching an article to Oprah magazine and considering a Masters in “innovation and creativity” (just a thought, just a thought) amongst some other plans.

I’ve attached a few pics from the last bit of the trip for those of you not on Facebook. Love the chameleon whiskey and the Emperor’s palace. I’m thinking that if I am ever reincarnated I might like to be an Emperor.

In case you’re wondering who the 4 people in the picture are with Frankie, they’re the Czeck family that I met that I travelled with. They were very interesting like so many of the people I met from the German living-in-California conspiracy theorist to the Chinese I-hate-cycling guy who blared Chinese pop music to the Chinese born, US raised Environmental policy specialist living in Manilla to the Belgian meat store owners to the British living-in-India bomb miner….they certainly made the journey most interesting. I also read a fascinating book called “Living in Absurdistan” by an Ozzie journalist called Eric Campell who was posted to places like Moscow, Kosovo, Beijing, Slovenia, Iran, Afganistan from 1996 to 2003 and it really opened my eyes.

I feel like I learnt as much about the world, it’s joys and challenges as I did about Vietnam and Laos on this trip and feel unbelievably blessed for having had the experience.

 Thank you to all of you who sponsored me. It looks like I’ll get to R20 000 by the end which is great! More importantly thank you for your support for without you I could not have achieved what I set out to. 1200km’s for a complete non-athlete is, for me, a massive achievement and proved to be the experience of a lifetime.

Sending love

Kitkat and Frankie

PS Frankie is most delighted to be home and is busy negotiating a book deal “Frankie goes to Nam”. I think he may actually be onto something although I have to say his jumping into every photo shouting “it’s for my book deal, it’s for my book deal!” was getting a little tiresome towards the end. 


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Honeeeey, I'm home
Posted on 01/02/2010 09:11:42
Okay so let me backtrack a bit. Last time I posted my blog I was in Hue. I had met a Czeck family and we were staying in the same htel. Linda and her boyfiend Alex were travelling for a year and her sister, Clara and her mom Pauline has joined them for a month in Vietnam and Laos. We met on the disastrous bus jourey from Vientienne to Hue. Linda and Alex had recently come from Iran and their tales of the country was decidedly different from those stories in the papers.

Anyway it seems the drivers broke my bike good and proper on the bus from hell so on our last day in Hue, we decided to hire motorebikes to visit the tombs outside of the city. Hue somewhat redeemed itself for me on this day as the tombs and monestery we went to see were authentic and really interesting.

That night we ended up catching a real VIP bus to Hanoi and apart from the fact that a rat the size of mt cat, Samwise, run straight underneath my feet at one of the stops it was rather uneventuful. Lying down in the bus, listening to music and watching the full moon was an almost spiritual experience.


Despite having my return ticket scheduled for the 7th of Feb, I've known in my heart for a few days now that it was time to go home. Being on this trip has been the most amazing adventure and has delivered some unexpected rewards. I feel as though I have a renewed self confidence and a 'zest' that has returned to me that I felt missing towards the end of last year. I am hugely grateful for having had the experience but also feel ready to return home. And so it is that after a horrendously slow taxi drive to the airport this morning from Hanoi, I find myself in Hong Kong on a 9 hour stop over.
(Just a quick one on the taxi driver: why when the city of Hanoi pulses 24-7, did I manage to find the only courteous and painfully slow driver who insisted on obeying every single rule? Oh yes I think I am being given some lessons on patience by the universe)

Well I'm taking Frankie off to find some noodles but before we go he wants to say a word;

"Well looks like my guardian frog duties are almost over...at least for this trip. Have to say I've worked pretty hard but had the most rocking time. Before the next bike trip though I think I need some goggles, as suggested by my mate Wayne. When Lisa is hauling ass down the hills at 60km's per her the moisture shields don't work so good. Well dudes we off to find some noodles and things in downtown HK...chat lata...Frankie" 


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Eating curds and Hue
Posted on 29/01/2010 13:31:42
Well I was about to let you know what the bible, otherwise known as the Lonely Planet has to say about Hue but I just realised I left it at the restaurant. Oh well I suppose not bad for a month away...only 1 LP lost.

Anyway their words were something along the lines of
"Hue can be described as the charming cultural and intellectual capital of Vietnam"
UNESCO went as far as to declare the citadel a world heritage site.

Are they serious? Have they been here? Forgive me for my synicism; I don't know, perhaps it was the newly built tennis court described as the emperor's favorite pastime or the important plastic lion statues that got me questioning. I didn't know they had either tennis or plastic in the 1800's but then again it could just be me.

Yesterday when I climbed off the bus I met a Czeck family and we decided to travel together. They are really kind and I have to say I'm finding their history and conversation somewhat more interesting then Hue's.

I've begun reading a book called "Absurdistan" about an Aussie journalist who covered the Communism in Russia, the war in Kosovo, the fighting in Afganistan and the strange modern day dictatorship displayed by the Chinese Government and I'm finding it comepletely fascinating. Call me naive but I didn't realise that so many countries had so many soredid pasts and even more soredid current situations. I guess each country, just like each person, has their own story and own suffering. Speaking of country's I have to say that SA has a bad rap. Seems we're on "the most dangerous" list and it saddens me deeply to hear it. Sometimes I wonder what is happening to the world and what I can do about it. I have to believe that I can help make change. 

Anyway on a less serious note Frankie wants to speak. 

"Dude's what a day! I sat in Lisa's backpack all day while we wondered around this massive palace type place. I saw some brother's from another mother in a bottle so I'm a bit too freaked out to leave the backpack. These Asian's are crazy man. Nothing is sacred...not even guardian frogs! Thank God we're off home soon. Well I gotta get me some grub so cheers and keep it real"

Thanks Frankie:-) Well we're off to dinner and then back to our $5 per night hotel. Actually it's not too bad and we got a TV so me and Frankie can watch movies. Yay! Tomorrow night we're taking the bus back to Hanoi. I had hoped to go to Cambodia on this trip but I think to be done justice, it needs more than 4 days so we'll leave it for next time. Besides Frankie forgot his hat at home and doesn' think he can bear the 40 degrees heat. Already in Laos I had to dose him with cold water 5 times a day.

Sending love
Lisa and Frankie
xxx 
 
 

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The way to heaven and the bus back from hell
Posted on 28/01/2010 11:52:06
Well if I cycled all the way to heaven, I sure caught the bus from hell back. I was sold a 'VIP' ticket only to be dumped onto a local bus with some other unsuspecting tourists. The bus stopped at the most suspect places along the way with prices being triple what they should've been. I had been told there would be food on the bus and of course there wasn't so I closed my eye's to the sound of mine and Frankie's stomach's grumbling and to the chatter of the rough English boys behind me bragging about how many magic mushrooms they'd taken. Honestly I dont know why some people travel? South East Asia is definitely a hedonists paradise and there are truckloads full of Western tourists taking full advantage.

I was rudely awoken by a stop where the bus driver herded us all off the bus and demanded $10 to get us through the border. We all told him to go jump! The border was chaos and actually I felt pretty at home; just like home affairs in Alex!

About an hour after the border the bus broke down. Funny that - how unusual for Asia. Frankie at this time was screaming blue murder but I'll let him tell you all about that. Well we're here but it's a lot less quaint than I imagined or perhaps I am just suffering from sleep deprivation.

"Okay so I'm sitting on the bus thinking I could murder a few coackroaches for breakfast and possible the deadbeats sitting in the back of the bus when all of a sudden the blasted thing broke down again, the bus I mean. Unbelievable. Although I was a bit tired of sitting on the front handle bars - it's just cries for bad hair days - I started thinking of telling the broad to get her bike out and let's just peddle to Hue. Well she had a better idea and flagged down a local taxi. She hooked up with a cool Czeck family and has ended up staying in the same guest house as them. Thank God I can take take a bit of a break from having to watch over her 24-7. Now I can hop off and find some decent grub! I here Hue makes awesome bbq bugs...hmmmmm. Okay see ya soon. Frankie. PS Will send pics of me soon"

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Missing home
Posted on 27/01/2010 07:23:23
I've been away from home for 3 weeks now and I cant believe how the time is flown. It feels like only a moment ago that I left and yet also a lifetime, if that makes any sense. I really miss home today. My body is tired and I have absolutely no desire to go exploring so I've bought a book to bide my time until the 24 hour bus to Hue (Central coast of Vietnam) leaves later today.

I know it is not true but I cannot help but feel somewhat 'useless' at the moment. In between jobs makes me feel like I'm not contributing to any ascpect of society at the moment and yet I know that one's self worth, purpose and value, can anyway, not be found in a vocation.

Will write again from Hue.
Adios - love Kitkat and Frankie
 

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Blood, sweat and tears
Posted on 26/01/2010 13:40:19
Please accept my apologies for yesterday's all too brief blog and let me clarify on some of the details.

I finished with the group last week and left Luang Prabang last Saturday to ride to Vientienne, the capital. I arrived safely in Vientienne today, a day too early, but at 2pm today my butt and Frankie told me they had had quite enough and best I find a bus for the last 70km's. In fact the pain from my saddle sores reduced me close to tears and in 36 degrees heat I left the German guy, Axle, (yes, as in Axle Rose) I had been cycling with in a cloud of dust. He was quite an interesting character with many conspiracy theories about the US govt. which made for an interesting distraction from the riding. 

Equally fascinating was "Whoo", the Chinese guy we'd been riding with and I was sorry to see the last of him yesterday when he stopped for a rest and was not seen again. Cycling from China to Cambodia, he rode around with a radio that blared Western pop hits in Chinese. Have you ever heard "My heart will go on" by Celine Dion in Chinese? It's not pretty.

The ride over the past few days was possibly one of the most scenic of my entire life. I still haven't got my luggage from Luang Prabang but as soon as I do I'll get my camera cable and send some pics. The last 2 night's was like being perched in paradise. Quite a strong contrast from Vietnienne which is dirty and full of traffic. I'm spending quite alot on a guest house here but Frankie would not have it any other way. He demanded aircon, shower and TV or else! Who am I to argue with my guardian frog?

Speaking of guardians, I have no doubt that I have a ton of them watching over me. I have to comment on the friendliness and hospitality of the Laotians. All along the way I was helped, fed and cared for and I cannot begin to express my gratitude. Even at my first rest stop on the first day upon buying a drink I was plied with about 10 banana's from the shop owner once she found out I was on my own. Today the conductor of the bus I hopped on, helped me with my bike and upon hearing the story of my ride announced to the rest of the travellers on the bus, in Lao, my massive achievement. Everyone clapped as I got off and I felt a little embarrased although somewhat proud too.

So I think I'm done with the bike for a while. Apart from the fact that my backside features a number of colous from the rainbow, I am thinking of going back to Vietnam which will require a couple days on a bus.

So to answer your question Jan, unfortunately I don't know the total profile of the trip although if I didn't climb to the top of Everest on our trip then I certainly did in the past few days;

Sat 23 Jan Luang Prabang to Kiew Kacham 78km's (1600m ascent)
Sun 24 Jan Kiew Kacham to Kasi 96km's (2000m ascent)
Mon 25 Jan Kasi to Vang Vieng 70km's (500m ascent)
Tue 26 Jan Vang Vieng to Phoukoun 90km's (500m ascent) and then another 70km's on the bus to Vientienne


Okay well off to grab some grub - havent eaten since breakfast and enjoy my nice room:-)
Love to everyone
Kitkat and Frankie
xxx

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Deep in Laos
Posted on 25/01/2010 12:19:59
Well I was rather apprehensive leaving Luang Prabang for the unknown but I have to say it's been the adventure of a lifetime! Little did I know as I set up one of the steepest passes to date, what the day would bring. Just at the top of the pass I met another cyclist; "Whoo" is his name and he's from China. He's been a source of great amusement along the way as he cycles to Cambodia and Thailand.
It was a tough day's climb and in 36 degrees heat (what a change from Vietnam) I had another bout of SHF (Sense of humour failure). At the top of the climb I met another German guy "Axel" and we all stayed at the guest house...well if you can call it a guest house. I use the term loosely.

The next day's ride was incredible and I can't wait to show you all the pics! We finished the 78km's in good time and arrived in a paradise! The guest house had hot springs so as soon as we arrived we jumped right in. The guest house was situated in between the limestone cliffs and incredible does not even begin to describe the setting.

Today I woke up starving and after a breakfast of pancakes and omlette's we set off into the horizon. We lost "Whoo" today who was set on a mission. Axel and I ended up riding to the other side of Vang Vieng which was worth the ride as we have ended up staying in some idyllic river paradise. There are only a couple of people staying at the resort so it's really nice and quiet. (Away from the party animals staying in the town)

Tomorrow Axel is going his own way as I set off to a town called "Thalat" - no doubt some more amazing scenery and adventure await. Well gotta go feed Frankie - he's calling for a pineapple fruit shake.
Lots of love
xxx

PS It's 43 degrees today - Winter! Where's the chill factor now??

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Monks, temples and pancakes
Posted on 21/01/2010 13:37:59
Sheesh what a day! Had a hair cut, went for a full body massage and ate pancakes. It's a tough life here in Luang Prabang (LP).
Seriously though LP has been declared a UNESCO world heritage site. It's a touristy but quaint little place. There are temples on every corner and monks walk the streets in between tons of tourists.
The French left some fabulous things such as Lao coffee and crepe's. I've been carbo loading on them for my journey ahead. Tomorrow is another rest day and I'm heading out to Nam Ou caves where there are some Buddha statues but on Sat it's back on the bike for what is, apparently, a very mountainous ride. Frankie is looking forward to it but that's only because he doesn't want to peddle.
This morning I walked up to one of the highest temples - 190 steps to be exact and it was exquisite but my legs started complaining so I decided to test out one of the local massage parlours. R80 for an hour's full body massage. A lady possible a quarter of my size sat on me and worked my body back to suppleness. Dynamite really does come in little Laotian packages:-)
I tried 3 times to mail out pics but it was just not happening for me today so here's the link to where I posted them on FB.
So it may be a couple days 'til I update again, depending on how long it takes me to ride to Vang Vieng. Don't worry though, it's really safe here and I have Frankie and the faeries to protect me and bring me luck.
Lots of love
Kitkat and Frankie
xxx

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Land of dragons and butterflies
Posted on 20/01/2010 13:02:39
Well we've arrived! Luang Prabang - 9 days later, 800km's and a majorly sore butt! Did I say my butt resembled Brad Pitt's? Probably not - I'll bet his doesn't have red marks on it.

I really enjoyed seeing Laos on a bicycle. It's a magical and mystical place and I love it.

Thank goodness it's also warmer, not just in temperature, but in spirit too. Everday as we passed villages, the children ran to the side of the road to wave and say "saibadee" - "hello" in Laos.

The countryside is amazing and it looks like a dragon's back; full of jungle covered peaks. Words cannot do justice so I have posted some pics on Facebook for you to see. Laos also seems to be the home of the butterfly and they've accompanied us on every part of the journey. Maybe they are attracted to the sound of children's laughter that is sprinkled along the valleys. The children here are always smiling and happy - even though they have so little. Funny how you can learn from people who seem to have so little. In reality it is us who are often the poor ones.
Anyway I can't stay long as Frankie and I are off to join the group for a celebratory dinner. We're going to stay in Luang Prabang for a few days before heading out. Frankie says seeing as we had so much fun riding here, why dony we ride all the way to the capital, Vientienne? It's only another 400km's. Hmmm not a bad idea. Although I'll be on my own, it's really safe here. (I wouldn't do the same thing back home). Besides yesterday we met a Dutch couple who have been cycling for a year! 15 000km's - sheesh! And I thought I was nuts! 

Okay guys - love to you all!

Love a tired babe-on-a-bike and Frankie (who funnily enough is not so tired. Guess that's what happens when you sit on the handle bars and don't peddle!)
 

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Down the rabbit hole
Posted on 18/01/2010 12:30:18

So for (on average) 5 days out of every month, most women between the age of 15 and 50 experience something called "PMT". This means they are grumpy, irritable, emotional and by my own admission should generally abstain from operating heavy duty machinery for fear of possible homicide. Alas I find myself in this state...on a bicycle in the middle of South East Asia with none other than Frankie to listen to me vent as we peddle away. For the past 2 days he has been seated in my back pocket looking out oer the world but today he sat on the front handle bars to check out the amazing jungle scenery that is
Northern Laos.

Crossing the border yesterday was like jumping down into the rabbit hole; magical and scary all at the same time. After a couple of hours at the border post (and a mere $34 for the visa; actually $30 for the visa and then $1 because it was Sunday, $1 for a service fee and $2 penalty for not having photo's) we crossed into magical Laos. The road, and I use the term loosely, consisted of rocks and dust and I was truly in my element as we tackled the hairy descent. Unfortunatey for us, the govt has commenced a 4 year road project which means that sections of the road are closed for 4 hours at a time and so we sat having a picnic on the side of the road whilst valuable daylight hours ticked by. The best attitude, I have learnt, whilst travelling in Asia is the "oh well" attitude and may prove useful in preventing possible heart attacks in inpatient travellers.

Whilst we waited we went to see the local village and I felt as though I had stepped back in time. It felt a bit strange walking through the village and I wondered what the locals must have thought of us. I'm not sure I'd like a bunch of tourists walking 'round my backyard and taking pics.

Once the road opened at 4pm we got on the bikes for another half an hour before being told that we needed to get on the truck otherwise we may miss the ferry. (We have swopped guides as our travel co. SpiceRoads believes in promoting local ecomoies.) Joy, our Loas guide, told us that the ferry closed at 6h30pm and that it would take us approximately an hour to get there. Joy, the Loas name for skinny, suits his name very well as he is both skinny and joyful. Like most Laos people, his eyes shine with kindness and generosity. Most Loas people are Buddhist and it seems to be more intergrated into their daily life than in Vietnam although I dont think I'm at liberty to make such sweeping statements.

Back to the truck...despite the most magical scenery after an hour and a half we began to worry that we may not make it. Every time we asked Joy how much further he responded "10 minutes". It was Wim's 41st birthday and we began to worry that we may have to spend his birthday camping on the side of the road. After the 4th response of "10 minutes" we all burst out laughing and had to stop the truck because we were in danger of falling off from laughing so much.

Thankfully we made it - just - and despite our concerns arrived at the most quaint river village. The hotel was clean and dinner was a festive affair at an open aired river cafe. We started dinner with shots of Laos whiskey for Wim's birthday which is probably the most vile drink I've ever had. I have spent the past two days with terrible cramps and I think it just burnt a hole right through. After dinner they turned the music up and even made a cake for Wim. It turned out to be one of the most amazing days!

Today we were sadly back on the tar although perhaps one of the most stunning stretches of road I have ever ridden on. The road meandered along the river valley surrounded by jungle covered mountains. 105km's and some spectacular snack and photo stops later we arrived at Udom Xai which is one of the major cities. The hotel is beyond spectacular and I dont think I'll be anxious to jump out of bed tomorrow. Joy says it's a tough day tomorrow so best Frankie and I carbo load this evening!

On a bit of a more personal note I really missed home today. Whilst we're travelling in a group it's challeging to continuously rely on and manage yourself. I'm missing you sis, dad and friends.
Sending love to you all.
Love Lisa and Frankie


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A butt like Brad
Posted on 16/01/2010 09:39:26
If you have ever seen Brad Pitt in "Troy" then you will know that underneath the steel skirt lies a pair of légs and a butt unrivalled in all the world...until now:-) I have not yet had the pleasure of checking but after the past few days riding, it feels like every one of my muscles has been sculpted and redefined.
We have done over 5000m of ascending since the start which méans that unofficaly we have climbed more than half way up Everest!


We are in Dien Bien Phu - âpparently one of the major mẻtrôplis's of Vietnam. Hmmmm....not so sure about that.

Well I have to say that the past few days have been tough but in ways I could not have imagined. I knew I would ễxperience SOHF (sênse of humour failure), it was just a matter of when.
Diary excerpt Jan 14:
"What am I? NUTS!!! A week in Mauritius never ảppealed to me? Seriously, who takes a fròg naméd Frankie half way accross the world to ride a bicycle in some of the coldest temperatures?
I had 4 layers on tòday and felt numb. Next time I feel like an adventure I am going to lie down until the feeling passes...."

Well it's understandable why I wrote this and I am happy to report that my sense òf humour has returned. It was officially the coldest I have êver been in my whole life (Going down a 24km pass I felt like my heart was shivering inside a freezer and that my véins would crack at any time) and I had a stomach bug AND the electricity kept tripping. BTW it has just tripped for thẻ 3rd time so if I dont finish typing you understand why. That and the Vietnamese keyboard is starting to 'P' me of.
Also if you rêceived a mail of pictures with no explanation it was because I could not sénd any out because as soon as I type the 'send' button disappears so âpologiés for not replying to mails.

If I were to summarise Vietnam I would say "Jungle, under construction" - well that goes for the North ânyway. There is massive construction on almost all the roads and in the towns. The govt is also busy with a massive hydro electric power schême and in May 2010, the whole valley we have just cycled through get's floođed. All the towns have been moved to higher regions. The local farmers have been given money for relocation but one wonders what they will do for livelihood once the farm land has been floođed. 

Cycling through the countryside is âmazing especially since the mist and sleet has lifted and we can see it. I have to say that the actual terrain in terms of the roads in much easier than I expected although the amount we ascend êach day has my pôor heart beating up a storm. I have heard a theory that one only gets a certain no. of beats in a lifetime and this has me somewhat concerned although I would be able to sây they certainly were exciting beats! 

So today we had a welcome rest day and tômorrow we are off to Laos. Last night one of the guys in our group, Wim, bought some worm wỉne and scorpion wine (local delicacies) and yes it was just a vile as you might suspect! Lets hope it helps up the hills tom. 

Todáy's visit to the war museum was quite bizarre. We were shown a movie on how Vietnam defeated "thẻ enemy" namely the French here at Dien Bien Phu. I couldn't help but get the feeling that whilst somewhat true we were being fed some propoganda. Who says communism is dead? 

Well I have so much more to say but the internet and keyboard is set to test my patiênce.
 


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When the sleet hits the fan
Posted on 12/01/2010 11:05:45
I woke up today thinking the ride would be cancelled for sure and it'd be a lie if I said I wanted to ride in this weather. Sleet, mist and minimal visibility doesn't exactly make one excited to climb on a bicycle! Frankie decided to sleep in and told me there was no way he was going out in that weather. Wise old frog!

Freezing cannot even begin to describe how I felt today. In fact freezing would assume that I could actually feel anything at all. This was not the case. The two Americans decided that riding in this weather was not for them and I half wished I could go back with them but I knew turning back was not an option. After 15km's on the bikes we stopped to have coffee in a little village. As I drank the steaming hot
liquid I could hear the ice cracking in my veins and they thawed. I have never wished to be fatter in my life but today I could've done with a few layers of fat.

There is a Belgium couple riding with us; Wim and Els who are used to such temperatures and they kept the spirits up with smiley faces and lots of jokes. I was still shivering after lunch and dont know how I managed to climb on my bike. It was uphill all the way back to the hotel and it was also the first time I was warm all day. 

I couldn't feel the water as I sank into my bath but when I did begin to thaw and stopped feeling sorry for myself, I thought about the ladies in the villages we had spoked to. One forget's how incredibly blessed one is. The best way to describe their living conditions is similar to the people of rural Kwazulu Natal. In fact there are many similarities one of the main one's being that the women work incredibly hard whilst the men sit and drink. 

As we stopped for coffee and a hot lunch of soup there were were a bunch of women from the village who followed us around and asked us loads of questions. Their English is pretty good and chatting to tourists is the only way they learn it. They live a subsistence farm life growing rice and also make some money from tourism.

Speakinf of tourists, there are a ton of them waiting to use the net so I gotta run.

Love from a very frozen Kitkat aka Babe on a bike and a warm and happy Frankie
xxx

PS Just so you know who I'm talking about in future these are the people riding with me;
Bingh and Treyun are the most unbelievable Vietnamese guides
Wim and Els are a way cool Belgian couple who run marathons across the world own a meat store back home.
Bob and Sheila are a retired couple from the states
Jan is a History Professor from Norway
Julian works for Hewlett Packard back home in Malaysia and
Tony is a retired Government official; a Brit living in Hong Kong.
Both Jan and Tony have left their wives at home for this trip so Sheila, Els and I are the only women.
Okay so now you know.

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Aeish
Posted on 11/01/2010 12:28:19
Aeish! That's about all I have to say after today's ride - I have the whole group saying it now.
Apparently today was just a warm up ride...apparently! It was about 48km's with some way awesome single track downhill and THEN 23km's plus uphill and over 1100m ascent. My dear Mikey warned me to get the profile and I have to say I'm actually glad I didn't; it'd just make me scared.

This place is called Sapa and is like the Switzerland of Vietnam except it comes with rice paddies. In the words of locals it's "same same but different". It's a bit chilly - okay alot chilly - but when the clouds cleared today I caught sight of the top peaks; magnificent and horrifyingly scary all at the same time.

Last night we (there are 8 of us peddling out way up to heaven) caught the train from Hanoi to Lai Cao after the most fabulous dinner. It's about 350km North West of Hanoi. We've got 2 amazing guides called "Being" and Treylin" who really take good care of us. The train was awesome and I slept the whole way. Yay!

I started today's ride out with a puncture (of course!) and unfortunately had left the slime at home but in the end changed tyres and just used a tube.
Well I cant stay long because I have a queue of foreigners behind me waiting to use the net so just wanted to send love.
Tomorrow is APPARENTLY another easy day, apparently!
BTW Frankie says he's gald he's not peddling!
xxx

PS Dinner was awesome! We all downed a few shots of this strange rice liqueur - hmmmm maybe that'll help tomorrow

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Scams, communism and ice cream
Posted on 10/01/2010 07:56:41
Sorry about the quick opt out last night. I was tired of the Vietnamese keyboard:-) You can check out the pics from yesterday on my FB profile.

This morning I went off to the Ho Chi Minh complex which was altogether a very strange experience. Just getting there was a challenge not just because I mounted a motor bike - its actually not that bad once you get used to the way the roads work - he with the bravest heart wins right of way, but also because I almost got majorly ripped off. It's 20 000 dong to 1US$ and this guy decided he thought it would be fine to charge me 500 000 dong for the return trip. I was 'saved' by another biker who paid off my driver - this was when I knew I was in real 'kuk'! Anyway he offered to wait for me whilst I visited the complex - funny that. So off I went.

I waited in the queue and met an American couple who told me that they had been charged 120US$ from the airport to their guesthouse. They were an elderly couple and I really felt for them. They're travelling for 2 months - apparently to get some peace and quiet from the grandkids...and they chose Asia?

Anyway we waited in a long line and were not allowed to take any camera's into the tomb where Ho Chi Minh's body lies. We had to walk in pairs and no talking was allowed. We were surrounded by guards in case we stepped out of line. It's easy to see how Communism shaped much of Vietnam. In fact the government here has even banned Facebook but they're not all too switch on so if you know how to access it via the 'lite' sight, its pretty easy to get on. (Thanks Wayne for the useful info)

I left the couple to get back to the guest house. Of course my driver was waiting and when I asked him "how much?" he kindly said "same same" which is the standard answer here if you dont actually want to convey any information. Upon arrival he said "such a good d(w)iva" - they cant pronounce 'r' - just like I cannot understand their 6 different tones - and promtply asked me for 400 000. I gave him a lecture on not ripping tourists off although in the end we settled at 100 000 and I still got ripped. No doubt he's already off to find another victim.

Hanoi, as the capital of Vietnam, is a bustling city and there are a ton of Aussies, Yanks and Germans - and a local scam artist for each and every one of them. The roads are filthy and full of people, bikes, cars and bicycles. All food seems to be killed, stored and cooked on the side of the road and every second person has a "skottle". I'm suprised my stomach has held up. India must've prepared me all that time ago.

There is a thriving construction industry here although the only place to build is up. Buildings in the Old Quarter are typically French or Chinese and are only every one door wide...it's merely the height that varies.
Fascinating that they use bamboo as scaffolding as it's really strong and it really works.

I meet my group this evening and we're leaving for Lai Cai (pronounced Lao Kei) on the overnight train after dinner. It's starting to dawn on me that the ride starts tomorrow.

Before I go I have to say I'm finding it hard to convey the environment here and at the same time conveying what its bringing up in me. It's funny but although we live in a 3rd world country - well certainly parts of it could be described as such - we dont often venture to that side. Being here, walking around, just the smell in the streets has to prompt a few questions;
How can this be sustainable on an ecological, social and economic level? What is my responsibility in all of this?...

...okay before I bog you down with too many questions and a little too much philosophy I'm off.

Take care
Love Kitkat and Freddie - we're off to ponder over some ice cream!
xxx


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